This is the concluding post in my 4-part blog about our family holiday in Sri Lanka —A week in Sri Lanka, Up… to the Sri Lankan highlands and Down… to the coastal plains. The last 2 days were entirely devoted, literally to ‘all creatures great & small’ as we joined the children in seeing and admiring animals, birds, reptiles in their natural habitats.
Having checked into Cinnamon Wild after dark, couldn’t have a proper look at the facilities. The resort is in the buffer zone of the Yala National Park and there are signboards in the resort premises not to wander around on your own as animals could be on the prowl. There is no compound wall or fencing separating it from the jungle. We were accompanied to our cottages by a guard flashing a torchlight. It was a clear night sky with twinkling stars and the stillness was broken by the sounds of frogs croaking. Had seen a Youtube video of this place that shows a wild elephant that often wanders into the resort and moves out without harming anyone or damaging anything. The security guard told us, how one family in a cottage had woken up in the morning to see a bear asleep on the verandah. OOOH! Exciting, a bit frightening too.
Checked into our cottages that had conical, slanting roofs (wooden structures) and the interiors plush. The lighting was quite diffused, in keeping with the forest, perhaps. The guard asked us to freshen up and when ready, call reception and a guard would accompany us to the dining hall on the first floor. There is another dining place, partly open near the pool too. Went up for a sumptuous buffet, spent some time in the semi-open reception area and asked the resort for packed breakfast, as our safari in Yala National Park would start by 6.30 AM/ We planned to return by 11 AM, pack -up, have lunch somewhere on the way to Mirissa. The package charges for the safari that will include the entry fees plus jeep and driver charges are flexible and one needs to negotiate hard. We went to sleep, dreaming of leopards and bears.
We were ready by 6 AM. There is a dedicated spot beside the resort, where jeep pick-ups for Cinnamon Wild take place. A resort attendant accompanied us to the waiting jeep, with the breakfast boxes and bottles of water. I repeat, bottles i.e. reusable glass bottles, strictly no plastic.
Yala is Sri Lanka’s most popular national park and the one, European tourists throng to spot the elusive leopard. The beauty of the park is that it is on flat plains, hugging the Indian Ocean. Yes, a forest, besides the sea. We made slow progress along a long, straight mud path, made even less motorable due to recent rains. The scenery kept changing, as we moved along. Peacocks, Jungle fowl, monitor lizards, aplenty, but the ‘Big L ‘was still to be sighted.
Interesting terrain, lovely sights but no leopard, though we had been inside the jungle for well over two hours now. Moving along a different path, we caught sight of some excellent scenery, two distant hillocks almost standing out in the middle of nowhere, waterbodies that had Bisons lazing around.
Moving along, we saw a wonderful sight at close quarters. A wild elephant stripping a tree bark and slowly munching on it. Stood there transfixed, as kids and adults alike enjoyed the scene.
Close to 10 AM, we couldn’t spot the spotted one. Due to recent rains, possibly they had moved deeper into the jungle to slightly higher ground, suggested our driver-cum-guide. The jungle trip had been eventful, no doubt but not to see a leopard was a wee bit disappointing. Now we moved to a place adjoining the sea , where tourists can relax, have their packed breakfast and use the well-maintained toilets. The building and its vicinity presents an ideal location for photo-shoots, as well. Got down, stretched our legs a bit, gobbled up the breakfast and admired the forest-seashore combo, a rare sight indeed.
We know the leopard is spotted, but not spotted by us. Exciting morning in the forest, we chatted, as we got off the jeep at our resort. Started dreaming of dolphins and whales next.
Setting off around noon, our plan was to have lunch on the way, visit the Bird’s Park in Hambantota then on to the picturesque Coconut Grove Hill, before checking into our resort at Mirissa. However, we had to alter our plans. It was a very hot and humid day. After lunch at a small town en route, we had two options — 1) Take a detour to Hambantota 2) Proceed straight to Mirissa. It was 2.30 PM now. The heat plus the early morning jungle trip had tired us all out and it was unanimously decided to go along to Mirissa. We raced past small coastal villages/towns with tiny hotels and seafood eateries along the way. Now, close to 4.30 PM, we could see the Weligama Bay and some large hotels such as the Marriott. Weligama and Mirissa are what you call, twin-towns. We were booked at the Mandara Resort in Weligama. Had to pass through a narrow lane and then voila, it opened out to the resort right on the beach. A huge property that had seen better days. The rooms too were large, overlooking the sea but the facilities were quite spartan.
The boat-owner who was to take us on the dolphin & whale-watching trip the following morning arrived with printed tickets. Printed or not, negotiate the price to around 50% of what is printed ………. and you will get a deal. Spent the rest of the evening playing on the beach and then poolside, before trooping in for an early dinner.
After we had retired to bed, there was a knock on our door. As I opened it, I found one of the hotel staff who asked me ” Are you the Russian who left his coolers at the poolside table? Angrily I replied — ‘ Do I look a Russian even in your wildest imagination?’ He beat a hasty retreat.
6 AM next morning. We were ready to go. The packed breakfast took a while. Soon we were on our way in our van and Nuwan told us , it would take about 15 minutes to Mirissa fishing harbor from where we would sail away for whale/dolphin watching. Reached the harbor and found a number of boats moored close to one another. Our man was there, and he told us not to talk about the price he had charged us, as he had charged the others more. Each boat has a lower and upper deck. The boat-owner advised us to take the lower one, though he said tourists thought upper deck presented better viewing. Why? This was our question. He replied that dolphins and whales may suddenly be visible on either side. On the lower deck, it is easy to move from one side to another to take a closer look while on the upper deck, the larger number of seats do not allow for such movement. Further the toilets were available only on the lower deck. We found the logic sound and took our places on the lower deck.
Soon, we were moving out of the harbor, where there were a number of small fishing boats apart from these larger tourist ‘whale-watching’ boats. First step, we were given ‘sea-sickness’ tablets to be popped in, if one felt sea-sick. Slowly, we moved into the open sea, straining our eyes for dolphins and whales. Amazing views of the turquoise sea and sweeping coastline and other tourist boats sailing at some distance.
Suddenly, the ‘Look-out’ shouted ‘Dolphins’ and pointed to our left, Sure enough, we could see a school of dolphins gamboling on the waves. As i admired them for a moment and was about to click my camera, they had gone. Two or three more times, same shout, same sighting but no capturing on camera. We were having a chat with the Master of the boat who spoke fluent English. He said they would continue sailing till we found whales. On some days after seeing dolphins and whales, we return by 9 AM, while on other days it goes on till even 11.30, he said. Now breakfast, comprising of sandwiches (vegetarian and tuna) were served along with soft drinks. As we had carried our breakfast too, there was more than enough to eat. Now, there were many who were feeling sick and throwing up, including my granddaughters. They were sitting quietly now, when suddenly there was a shout— ‘Whale’. Sure enough, to our right, we could make out a black form on the ocean surface that went down after a while and then resurfaced partially again. When we asked the Master, why it was not spouting water into the air or doing a ‘tail-up’ dive back into the ocean, he said this was a Fin whale and what we were referring to were blue whales. He added that during some seasons, we could see blue whales too. Alas! Again, no pictures only pictures captured in our minds through our eyes. Fruits were being served now — watermelon slices and bananas. Time to return to the shore. By 11 AM we should touch land, we estimated as the boat chugged along towards the harbor.
Back on the road, we were soon at Galle Fort, a picturesque, historic town with its fort wall, cricket ground, clock tower and the small shops. Dutch architecture is prevalent. Just drove around in the blazing sun, stepping out only to click a few snaps.
Now to see the turtles, demanded the children. Yes, we said, as we drove along the Galle Colombo Road. Hugging the coast, we could see small villages boasting of ‘surfing coaching’, seafood, homestays, etc. with the Indian Ocean being a constant companion to our left. There were a number of turtle hatcheries too, but Nuwan suggested we visit the biggest one called Ahungalla Sea Turtles Conservation Project called Sealife. The drive seemed endless and finally… we were there. The entrance itself is shaped liked a giant turtle. They have separate entrance charges for locals/SAARC passport-holders and others.
Glad that we visited the place. Not only the children, but we adults too felt sorry at the damages human beings were causing to turtles. We saw varieties of turtles that had been rescued — Leatherbacks, Hawksbills, Loggerheads, Olive Ridleys. Some of them had their limb(s) chopped off by ship propellors, some had injuries while getting entangled in nylon fishing nets and the most pathetic one — A turtle that had swallowed plastic waste mistaking it for jellyfish. Consequence– Gas filled the upper part of the shell and the bloated creature could swim on the surface but could not go down into the water to forage for food. How cruel humans are, said my seven-year old granddaughter. Another turtle had its limbs bitten off by a shark.
The Center is a non-government non-profit organization that runs on donations, entrance fees, sale of souvenirs, etc. We were told they buy out Olive Ridley eggs from natives who would otherwise eat them. The eggs are incubated appropriately, and the hatchlings released into the sea on a regular basis. We got to see 48-hour old hatchlings that would be released into the sea that very night.
Lunch, followed by the drive to Colombo. Shopping for souvenirs, dresses and then into the comforting arms of Taj Samudra. At last, an Indian hotel. Colombo has changed phenomenally since the last time I was here. A Chinese feel everywhere, but the Taj remains Indian at heart and spirit, Next morning, a heavy breakfast with a birthday cake and then, it was time to move out to the airport and fly across the Palk Strait to our homeland. Thanking Nuwan for his help and safe driving, all through, we boarded our flights.
Upon landing at Chennai, the poem that echoed in my mind was…….
A vacation for generations three
Mountains, jungles, sand and sea
Elephants in the river, forest and on the road
But the leopard we missed in its own abode
Whales and dolphins we did see
Alas! My camera was not as quick as me
The trek was a bit of a strain
Yet, on the Nine Arch Bridge, we saw a train
Speed boating on Gregory Lake
Is not for the faint-hearted to take
If the cultural show in Kandy left us in wonder
At Ramboda Falls, we could hear the thunder
Hanuman’s footprint and Ravana Falls
Sita Amman Temple is open to all
Varieties of tea we got to taste
Galle Fort, we had to do in haste
Human callousness was in evidence
As we looked at turtles’ painful existence
Once beautiful Colombo now has a Chinese feel
Thanks to the Belt Road Initiative deal
As we touch down in Bharat, a rousing welcome
AR Rahman croons ‘Thaai Manne Vanakkam’
Wonderful memories to last a lifetime
Home sweet home any time, every time
Bala's Broadcast 